A family weekender in Bicheno, Tasmania
Growing up in Tassie, we were spoilt for choice when it came to backyard adventures. This island state is home to some of the most magnificent views in the world – and you don’t have to travel far to find them.
One of the most popular spots for locals and tourists alike is the east coast. It’s dotted with charming seaside towns and delivers peak coastal vibes in every season: crisp in autumn, moody in winter, all four seasons in one day during spring. (Summer, of course, is when the locals flock to the water.)
This weekend, we’re jumping in the Corolla-copter (yes, that’s me trying to make our very practical Corolla sound exciting) and heading just under two hours east to Bicheno – a beautiful coastal town known for:
The Lobster Shack (yes, it deserves to be listed twice)
Penguin tours at dusk
Easy strolls to the Blowhole
The East Coast Natureworld wildlife sanctuary
We’re staying at Bicheno by the Bay, one of the higher-rated, family-friendly, and well-priced options on Google. Most of the cabins have a retro holiday camp charm, but we like the vibe of the newer cabins – they’re all single level (so no stair anxiety), show less wear and tear, and still have space for little ones to roam wild and free.
If you’re flying into Launceston Airport (LST), Bicheno is just under two hours’ drive south-east. Stop halfway at Campbell Town for a Prana chai (or coffee) in the wild at Sweet Brew – a popular leg-stretcher for road-trippers and caffeine seekers alike.
A Hipster Fisherman’s Dream
The Lobster Shack has had a glow-up. Since I last visited several years ago, it’s evolved into a hipster fisherman-and-his-wife’s dream. Think: rustic timber, cold beers, and the kind of seafood that makes you want to text your mum “You’d love this place.”
Out on the decking area, you’re flanked by two soundtracks: on one side, Supertramp’s The Logical Song hums through the speakers like a nostalgic wink to road trips past; on the other, the dusk chorus of sea birds rising from the island opposite.
The buoys bobbed in the ocean, and Lark, thrilled, pointed and yelled “balls!” which, to be fair, they absolutely resemble. She squawked at a seagull like she was part of the performance, then zoomed around the timber deck at full toddler throttle.
I sat back with a glass of wine and let the salty breeze do its thing – relaxing the way a mum with a toddler can: semi-alert, slightly sticky, but content.
I surprise-ordered a Tasmanian seafood feast for our hungry little trio: buttery abalone, scallops in a mild curry nestled on rice, a Greek salad (I picked out the olives and served them in an abalone shell, much to Lark’s delight), and a half dozen oysters delivered today fresh enough to flirt with your taste buds. There were also two glasses of local Chardonnay, so smooth they practically patted us on the back and said, “You’ve earned this.”
It was a dinner for champions – and we all tied for gold, silver and bronze. Tassie really does have some of the finest produce in the world.
The light in our hearts (and bellies) glowed long after sunset.
We said farewell via the gift shop – as all good adventures do – and picked up a Father’s Day gift for RaRa: a hipster Lobster Shack trucker cap, classic black mesh with a white crown and bold red logo.
He looks ridiculously good in it, like a coastal fisherman who also does improv on Thursdays.
Noddy Nights & La-Di-Dah Frogs
The streets were dark as we bundled Lark into the backpack carrier and wandered home past Bicheno’s finest landmarks – the free dump point (hear that, grey nomads!) – and into Bicheno by the Bay.
We’re staying in Noddy – the red cabin. It does the job, but not what we were expecting. On closer inspection, the Agoda listing merges photos of both the older and newer cabins, so it’s easy to think you’re booking a different cabin. We genuinely thought we were reserving one of the newer ones.
Noddy was charming and had everything we needed – a kitchen for bottles, a table for cards and Pinot Noir (collected enroute from Gala Estate, Cranbrook), and even a baby gate at the top of the stairs (though our toddler could’ve squeezed under it with enough motivation). Having separate rooms was a dream.
But the stain on the lino near the toilet and a strong bathroom odour when we first arrived were hard to ignore. That said, the price is fantastic for the area, and the location is unbeatable – right by the water, and walking distance to all the main attractions. So yes, we’d 100% come back to Bicheno by the Bay – next time, we’ll just call ahead and request one of the newer cabins directly. Lark was thrilled by her very own playground next door, and honestly, that’s the real star rating system. The whole place is very family friendly.
We MacGyvered two single beds together for her royal toddler highness, wrangled her into an ErgoPouch 3.5 tog sleeping suit (because Tassie nights don’t mess around), and now I’m lying beside her, sharing warmth on the very specific side of the bed she assigned to Mama.
Before sleep, we threw our whole selves into several choruses of “Galumph went the little green frog,” accompanied by animated claps, delighted squeals, and a supporting cast of imaginary la-di-dah frogs. Meanwhile, RaRa caught some quiet time downstairs.
And now – as I lie here next to this tiny, snoring furnace – I can confirm:
This is living.
Day Two: Seabirds, Sourdough & Sniff-Free Mornings
We woke to a gorgeous sunrise on the East Coast, warming our cabin first thing in the morning. The sea birds called over the sea breeze. Well rested – and thankfully the bathroom smell had disappeared overnight – making the Noddy feel rather lovely.
Lark, suspiciously eager to dress, was already waiting by the door to explore her side-yard playground. She was raring to go. We packed the car, checked out, and decided to go old-school exploring the seaside town to see what caught our eye.
Bicheno has a wholesome vibe to it. People gathered around coffee carts, cafes and the famous blowhole, which was certainly putting on a show (and yes, we amused ourselves with innuendos).
First stop, which we drove past twice before finding it, was Peggy’s – a superbly crafted cafe run by (presumably) Peggy, who left the luxurious Saffire Freycinet (this one is high on my travel bucket list) to start the cafe a couple of years ago.
The menu is simple, but clever and well rounded. The meals are beautifully presented. The atmosphere well considered, with thoughtful touches like books and toys for little people, and games for the kidults. Lark was rather smitten with a toy horse guarding the front door.
The brewed chai, served in a colourful teapot, washed down the artfully assembled muesli. RaRa enjoyed the sourdough crumpets with candied butter. Lark demolished her babycino and immediately asked for more.
Peggy gave us some useful tips for exploring the town, including the toy library at Waub Beach – created by the local Year 9 classroom as part of a community project. Having wondered where we might pick up a plastic bucket and shovel to build sandcastles, this idea is genius.
Our next stop? Natureworld Wildlife Sanctuary.
Natureworld was a big highlight for us. The two birds at the entrance charmed us with a dance party, which Lark was immediately there for – setting the tone for the day.
We wandered at our leisure through the nocturnal house and then the aviary, before feeding the white wallabies and catching the informative devil feeding. Lark watched intently as a trio of Tassie Devils played three-way tug of war on half a wallaby. Leg, leg and tail pulled in opposite directions – going for the meat first, then the bones, and finally the fur and feet. Nature’s cleanup crew: efficient, ferocious, and utterly captivating.
The playground was another big hit (playgrounds are our life now). We had some leftover kangaroo feed, so RaRa ventured down near the water to offer it up – only to be flocked by a cloud of opportunistic seagulls the moment he tossed it in the air. A cinematic moment of chaos. A moment of glory.
We could have spent longer in the park, but after all the running around, Lark was ready for a nap. We jumped in the Corolla-copter, and she snoozed as we cruised back to the Lobster Shack for one last taste – their famous lobster roll, enjoyed in the front seat with water views and crumbs on our laps.
On the way home, we made a sparkling pitstop at Devil’s Corner – a family-friendly vineyard with space for kids to roam while grown-ups sip well-priced tasting paddles. The Devil’s Corner Pinot Noir is a long-time favourite, but this time we wanted to sparkle. The Sparkling Cuvée did not disappoint.
Hearts happy, bellies full, and our lust for travel momentarily satisfied, we drove home dreaming big about our next adventure together.
